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Friday 3 April 2009

Creag don't & Pete's wall

As often before, after a sunny week rainy weather was forecast for this weekend. But this time Steve Addy and I wouldn't be caught out and so we went cragging on a Friday. We went to Creag Dhu which is also known Creag death or Creag don't. It has a reputation for a big wall with little gear.

It was >15 degrees, sunny and we bouldered a bit to get used to the rock hereabouts. I had Inbred on my mind, a **** HVS that went up the initimidating steep wall on big holds.

It follows a crack to a triangular niche, then step down and climb up onto a ledge. Good climbing, sometimes good gear, sometimes not. Here's me looking down after the niche in a photo taken by Steve.
Steve is actually on a ledge so it is pretty airy up there. The climb now goes right and with little gear to a loverly ledge with a bolt. Steve then seconded the first and led the second pitch which is an 4b rising traverse high in the sky. He's still smiling here...

... and nearly done here.

A long, scary abseil follows.


After that we did the direct start of King Bee VS***. A proper VS as this lass demonstrates...

... and here is Stevie on the second pitch, not a pushoever either.

Here is that other team on Brute, another VS with an overhang high up...

... and then they carried on with LMF, an exposed E1.

After that we visited Huntly's cave where I had an attempt on the pumpy Pete's wall E2 5c**. I got high up but misplaced a cam, never got it into a good slot and had to rest. I got the move after the rest. Well, early season and it was close.

Rain, you can come now! HW

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